You’ve got to try this place.

That is, unless you’ve got a big meeting coming up, or any other occasion where you might have to shake another person’s hand.

It’s been several hours since I left Smokin’ Bones and my hands still smell like barbecue sauce.

This is not a criticism – in fact it’s rather welcome on a cold Toronto day – but it is something you need to be aware of before you make the trek to 117 Dundas Street East.

The first time I visited, I had the pulled pork sandwich with a side of sweet potato fries and a Dr. Pepper ($9.50). While it was delicious, it was perhaps more appropriate for someone with a much larger appetite: I spent the rest of the afternoon in a carbohydrate coma.

The second time, I just had the shaved beef sandwich ($7). It was tender and juicy and covered in “regular” sauce. They also offer a “spicy” option, but being a wimp, I backed off.

Another person at the table had the meat platter – any two items for $9. He chose baby back ribs and fried chicken, and added a side of baked beans for $3.

We’ll get to the meat in a second – it is called Smokin’ Bones after all – but it was those beans that made our lunch.

“The beans, I’m particularly proud of,” owner Orlando da Cunha said with a smile.

“Incredibly enough, the hardest part was determining the sweetness level. It’s a Texas recipe, and traditionally, they’re even sweeter. Some people still say they’re too sweet,” he added.

They were not. The fried chicken was moist, with a flavourful breading, but the portion was small: not enough meat on the bone. The ribs, though, were plenty, and the “spicy” sauce was delicious.

“Everything except bread, mayo and fries are made here,” da Cunha said.

“We have two smokers in the kitchen and we smoke everything on site.”

I spoke with da Cunha at one of the few seats in his restaurant. The former Good Tymez Café and local Green Party campaign office is now a yellow-walled, takeout-heavy restaurant.

He admitted he didn’t want to have any chairs at all when they opened, and instead keep the focus on takeout and a new delivery service, set to launch in mid-spring. His wife, as well as head chef Joseph Jacobson, convinced him otherwise.

The four-person team – Jacobson’s brother is also involved – aims to provide classic comfort food.

Despite the smokers, he said, “We are not a smokehouse – we are southern comfort food.”

That’s reflected in the menu, which comes from all over.

“We picked what we felt was the finest from wherever: we’re doing our beef Texas-style, because obviously that’s where beef is truly popular; we’ve chosen to go with a more Tennessee or Memphis style, rubs and that kind of thing, for the pork. Ultimately, for me, that’s the way I like it,” da Cunha said.

“As far as sauces are concerned, Carolina’s really tangy. Me personally, I like sour sauces, but when people see ‘barbecue,’ they assume it’s going to be sweet.

“We haven’t tried to go too far out with flavours – obviously we want flavour, but we’re not going to the extremes of the spectrum of flavour. Comfort food is comfort food,” he added.

There are plans to add more items in the future – da Cunha says gumbo, jambalaya, red beans and rice, as well as an okra dish are likely options – but right now, he says, he’s busy enough.

Hours

Monday - Wednesday 11am to 9pm
Thursday - Saturday 11am to 11pm